What a fabulous day on the coast path (although we rarely have a crap one)! The core four were out again today, and bashed out 8.5 miles according to the book, then 10 miles if you believe technology. JC missed the previous section and LN had had a longer pause. We walked through a chilly wind, with a few showers, but brilliant sunshine shone through as it so often does. Wildlife was varied today: a bronze seal called Nelson, three dead frogs and a selection of ponies.
- Start: 10:00 Polperro, Cornwall
- Finish 16:00 Seaton, Cornwall
- Grading: Moderate to Strenuous
- Distance: 10 miles
- Timing: 5.5 hours
- Walkers; me, RS, LN, JC
- Miles to date: 394.5
From 31st October – 1st April it’s free to park in Seaton! This is a refreshing change from the previous week, where parking in Polperro costs a small fortune on a Sunday, in fact 24 hours a day, year round. We left one car in Seaton, driving RS’s car back to Polperro which we left at the top of the hill, in a layby, and walked into Polperro down the steep, narrow Talland Hill flanked with the mind of cottages tourists come to Polperro to see.
Before anyone tuts that we didn’t contribute £9 to the historic village of Polperro’s upkeep, or whatever the bi-line is, our money was far better spent supporting local business such as Cornish Goodness (to get some sweets and gifts, and chat to to the lovely shop assistant) and Polperro Bakery for elevenses. And as today, I had the privilege of not driving and having my all-important end-of-walk pint bought for me, I have donated the carpark cost to Anthony Nolan via my Just Giving page 🙂
From Polperro town centre, you cross the bridge in front of the harbour and head out ofthe village on the left hand side (the other side, naturally as with all our walks would take you on the coast path in a clock-wise direction). The path is tarmacked for a while and then, when the holiday homes run out, it gets increasingly muddy! A steep-ish drop to the right, and not much of interest on your left, the path takes you to Talland Bay. Refreshments and toilets are seasonal here, so a Sunday in March – closed.
The sun was out, up another hill and hello to some ponies. We entered a few National Trust places: Hendersick, and out towards Bridge Rocks. Having been unable to find a suitable toilet stop, we had elevenses with legs crossed on a bench which some walkers kindly gave up us at the top of a very steep, puddle-filled set of steps.
About an hour later, we arrived in Hannafore, just before Looe and were surprised to see Raffles hotel. We briefly considered popping in for a Singapore Sling, but didn’t think they would appreciate the mud…
In Looe, we finally found a toilet shortly after discovering Nelson, the bronze-cast seal who was resident around Looe for some 20 years. Once it was established that Sarah’s Pasties (who won the Best Coast Path Pasty award recently) was closed, the heavens opened briefly and we wondered if the best part of the walk was indeed over. But as the Met Office had suggested: it cleared up minutes later and sunshine joined us for lunch.
Leaving Looe was strenuous, which was noticeable after the moderate previous stretch. The climb out of Looe, although on an easy path, was tough. We decended into Millandreath, and the very steeply up again to Bodigga Cliff.
The walk ended with a descent into Seaton, with two pauses: JC bought eggs from a road-side farm stall, and I later bought a bunch of Daffodils from outside someone’s house.
As I sit at home in Covid lockdown trying to write my blog, I realise I am actually finding coast path withdrawal more difficult than imagined. And as for finding the will power, interest and creativity to write: impossible. Fortunately I had written this one as soon as we got home that day. I remember as we walked into Seaton we each guessed how many coronavirus cases had been reported whilst we were walking. It had just slipped into 3 digits that day. Today, as I write I see that the UK has had over 28,000 deaths. On that day I’d joked that I hoped I could spend the rest of the month walking should we be laid off work… little did we know how bad it would now be…
Thank yous and mentions
- End of walk pint at Smuggler’s Inn, although the interior seemed a bit too modern for real smugglers!
- As mentioned previously we can’t get through a walk without decent, local sustenance, so Polperro Bakery did us proud: millionaires shortbread, bread pudding and pasties.
The Charity Bit
Although it’s not possible to walk at the moment – charities still need your help and your funds, so please click on the above links if you feel generous…