SWCP #26 & 27 Portreath to Zennor Head part 2

Following on from our previous day’s walk, the 3 of us continued on a walk of stark contrasts. The luscious colours and glitzy feel of Carbis Bay, followed by the tourist mecca and artistic hub of St Ives, and then out into the winderness of Zennor Headland had us scrambling and rock climbing, losing the path, dodging bogs and spotting seals.

Another fabulous day to be on the path when the rest of the UK were probably a bit disappointed with the weather…

Carbis Bay

Carbis Bay

Day 2 – 26th August 2019

  • Start: Lelant, Cornwall

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    Porth Kidney Beach, Godrevy in the distance

  • Finish: Zennor Head, Cornwall
  • Mileage: 10 m
  • Guide book timing: 5.5 hr
  • Actual timing: 5.5 ish hrs
  • Grading: easy,  then severe!
  • Weather: 18 deg, cloud and some sun
  • Walkers: me, RS, JC,
  • Miles to date: 239 m

We left one car in Zennor, drove another back to Lelant, such is that Cornish buses rarely make it possible to walk, and begain our walk out of the village and across the golf course. Rejoining the estuary from yesterday, from which we could see back as far as Godrevy Point that we had rounded the day before. Our walk was graced with views of Hayle Beach, Porthkidney Beach, and then into Carbis Bay, and Porthminster beach before joining the throng of tourists in St Ives. There was a threat of rain – a gun metal smear across the sky for most of the day, but moments of clarity when the scene was glossy-brochure-perfect. As above! 

In St Ives, we sniffed out a couple of bakeries, desperate to find some local delights for elevenses. Eating them of course was a stealth mission against the well-trained seagulls! No pastry casualties occured fortunately and we left the madness and went out onto much wilder clifftops.

Rugged moorland followed, and my camera went back in my bag as threatening rain turned into light showers and both hands were needed for some aspects of the walk. I wish I could have photographed it better… The severe part of the walk was fairly tough to capture, as it involed literal rock climbing and scrambling (great fun but not photographable without corny posing). At one point a family of three generations passed us – they looked German or Dutch: VERY CAPABLE! A tiny baby strapped to a mother, a father with a toddler on his back and then some parents/in-laws behind.

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Along this section of the path, we also passed a lady and her dog, who passed us later, who we passed again a bit later, until we fell in sync and walked together for a few miles. P and Beans (the dog) were walking the path at their own pace and managing to do it mostly with one car and a bus: a remarkable feat that we hadn’t managed to do very often.

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At Zennor Head we took photos of her and Beans for her, and wished her well having learned a bit of her story along the way. She had a fair bit to do still, with darkness only a couple of hours away and her car some 7 miles further on. I often think about her, and as my blog is so far behind I imagine she has long finished the path: I hope it did what she needed it to do for her…

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Learnings

  • On this walk, I really did understand that you can do or achieve anything with the right determination. I learned that the SWCP can, had and really will change people’s lives and help them to achieve goals they never imagined possible.
  • Leaving your tent up, to dry after the morning shower, rather than packing it up before you walk… is a great idea, unless it rains at the end of your walk too – meaning we had to pack down the tent in the rain… boo hoo.

Thank yous and Mentions

  • Our campsite gets a mention again: The Old Stables just outside Hayle, near Connor Downs. If you want a no-frills campsite run by good people at an honest price – head here!
  • St Ives Bakery – a place to be visited: serves fabulous pasties and baked goods with a smile. Try a Bruffin – kind of brioche muffin.
  • S H Ferrells & Son – a smaller, family-run bakery where we got the ever-famous Saffron Bun from for our St Ives elevenses!
  • The Tinners Arms at Zennor Head had a festival on when we arrived. Live music and food – if only we could have stayed longer!

The Charity Bit

Perhaps it’s thanks to this blog, or just kindness in general, but at the time of writing, my donations have exceeded my miles! Fabulous news! If you would like to donate, please do so here and read about the life-changing work that Anthony Nolan do too.

More about why I am doing this is in this post So what’s this coast path walk all about?

About graceeliz

Many years ago I met someone who said: "Don't know what you want to do with your life? Teach English as a foreign language, then you can travel the world. Best thing I've ever done!" That got me thinking. Research was done. Course booked in Barcelona. Certificate gained. 5 years living in Barcelona working as an English teacher. Done! Where to next? Check out my blog! 5 years in Barcelona, 6 months in Slovakia, 2 years in Australia... and now I am home in Somerset. We'll see if I can stop the itch in my feet...
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