SWCP #39b & #40a – Carne Beach to Hemmick Beach


Starting as we meant to go on, another walk was planned for the following weekend. Back down to JC, RS and I wandering through Veryan Bay in grey drizzle and wind, and through the film set of Miss Pereguine’s Home for Peculiar Children. Highlights were probably me hitting the ground a grand total of 3 times, thanks to very slippery mud and lows were having to eat lunch standing up, sheltering from wind and rain. But that’s how it goes…

Saturday 11th January 2020

  • Start: Carne Beach, CornwallIMG_20200111_111322
  • Finish: Hemmick Beach, Cornwall
  • Mileage: 9 m
  • Guide book timing: 4.5 ish
  • Actual timing: 5 hours
  • Grading: Strenuous
  • Weather: 6 deg – showers, drizzle, rain, wind
  • Walkers: me, RS, JC
  • Miles to date: 360 m

Getting to the start and end were a little perilous – involving some proper “Cornish highways” complete with grass in the middle and some impossible passing places. We parked in the National Trust Carpark at Dodman’s Point – payment is a donation of £2. A sketchy drive through more lanes and a flood back to Carne Beach so we could start. RS tried out his gaitors on this walk, looking rather fetching with shorts! And we set off in the drizzle, sadly not able to appreciate the views from Nare Head.

Decent camera got put away due to slipperyness underfoot.

We arrived at Portloe from above. The path decends past a (closed) public toilet to a very sleepy little village and harbour. The houses for sale suggest that locals might be priced out of the area as there were also an unsurprising amount of holiday lets.

IMG_20200111_150141From Portloe, memory tells me a had a few skids going down a slippery path. We made our way to West and East Portholland (another land of holiday lets) and then onto Porthlune Cove. The whole of this area of the Caerhays Estate was used in the filming of Miss Pereguine’s Home for Peculiar Children, which I remember not enjoying in the slightlest! Apart from the scenery, I found the plot ridiculous and remember at the time I wrote a lesson for my ESOL students on my thoughts for the film. I am considering watching it again though, if only to shout “I’ve been there” at the TV screen!


From Porthlune Cove we spent a silly amount of time trying to work out where to go. The written instructions in the Coast Path book are vague at times and the lack of yellow acorns when entering farmland makes it confusing. The wind picked up here too and when I stopped to get my map out, it whipped out a crisp packet and carried it away faster than I could run to catch it. It hate littering and never, absolutely ever, do it myself. To balance this henious crime however, I do pick up anything in my path as I am walking. I draw the line at poo bags and “well-established” litter, as I don’t have the equipment to deal with that. So, my apologies to the owners of Caerhays Estate: The crisp packet out-flew me. Hopefully another helpful walker behind me picked it up!

It was nearing 4:30 when we got to Hemmick Beach. The plan had been to walk around Dodman Point back to the car and start from there next weekend. But visibility, relentless wind and sore legs from slips dictated that we call it a day and start afresh next time.

Thank yous and mentions

  • It goes without saying that I can’t do these walks alone. So thank you to JC and RS today!
  • The New Inn in Veryan was where we had our end-of-walk-pint as there was nothing to be had at near our parking spot. It was dark by the time we arrived, and a cosy local pub with a log fire was what we needed!


  • At this time of year, darkness falls early and it’s not worth it nor is it pleasureable to walk in the dark: we made the right choice not to walk the extra mile or so that day as it was far better in the sunshine the following week.

The charity bit

As I write this I am reminded of the email I received around the same time of this walk from Anthony Nolan thanking me for my continuous fundraising through Just Giving page

If you would like to know more, or feel like making a donation, then please click on either of the above links.

As always, thank you for reading and walking with me on this journey. All comments, thoughts and questions appreciated and answered!


About graceeliz

Many years ago I met someone who said: "Don't know what you want to do with your life? Teach English as a foreign language, then you can travel the world. Best thing I've ever done!" That got me thinking. Research was done. Course booked in Barcelona. Certificate gained. 5 years living in Barcelona working as an English teacher. Done! Where to next? Check out my blog! 5 years in Barcelona, 6 months in Slovakia, 2 years in Australia... and now I am home in Somerset. We'll see if I can stop the itch in my feet...
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